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Sublime Point West Face

A sweeping, west facing wall with everything from superb face climbing, sheltered rain caves to beginner friendly multi-pitches.

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Aspect West
Rock type Sandstone
Requires bolt plates
Fragile when wet
Rain protected
Paid parking

Area description

The West Face of Sublime Point is one of the mountains most popular crags, and rightfully so! This "super" guide contains the following sub-areas, listed in the order you encounter them as you walk in: Choc Chip Chai Sector: A sheltered sport climbing sector with additional trad multi-pitches. Theory of Negativity Wall:A small alcove with some high quality sport climbing. Iliad Buttress: Some large, moderate trad multi pitches that top put. Binary Cave: A popular, rain protected sport climbing crag. Ben Trovato Wall: Superb face climbing on a soaring orange wall. Sweet Dreams Walls: Trad and sport multi-pitches named after the excellent, beginner friendly Sweet Dreams. This 3D guide excludes the Northern Walls and lower walls sections of the west face (both rarely climbed at).

Access notes

⚠️ Accessing Sweet Dreams requires the use of a Via Ferrata (marked in guide).

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Approach

Descends down the gully just before the bridge to the tourist lookout. Follow the well trafficked, steep trail down the ridge line, with several sets of descent rungs and a small squeeze through a hole. At base of the cliff, turn right and follow the cliff base to access the climbing. Refer to our 3D guide for an annotated descent path.

Loading GPS approach data...
Distance719 m
Elevation Change122 m
Time20m
-33.73552, 150.33870
-33.73482, 150.33710

Routes

Grade contexts: Roped (Ewbank), Boulder (Heuco)

Route lengths: Lengths range from ~10 m to ~175 m. Most climbs are between ~10 m and ~30 m.

Route styles

110
Total
Sport
Trad

Grade bands

Andy's Area

22

Rain, Hail and Shine

Right most route on wall.

Sport13m★Good🔩9
23

Ignorance is Bliss

Centre right route in wall. Shared start with Knowledge is Power.

Sport12m★Good🔩8
22

Knowledge is Power

Centre left route in wall. Shared start with Ignorance is Bliss.

Sport10m★★Very Good🔩8
21

There's a Tear in There

Left most route on wall.

Sport10m★Good🔩8

Choc Chip Chai Sector

12

Pawn's Leap

MixedRunout
Trad47m🔩3
16/20

ES

Chossy

Potential choss fest through the roof crack system. Unknown grade, unknown if its been repeated.

Trad50m
20

Choc Chip Chai

Right side bolted line in orange cave.

Sport15m★★Very Good🔩7
21

Vlad the Invader

Left side bolted line in orange cave.

Sport17m★★Very Good🔩8
12

Defaecation

ChossyMixed

Follows the line of least resistance through the choss. Path is approximate.

Trad43m★Good🔩3
12

Defecation Direct Start

Runout
Trad15m
21

Caractacus

Mixed
Trad110m🔩4
11

Queen's Shift

Mixed

Starts up the corner system until you reach the sandy ledge.

Trad190m★Good🔩8
21

Little Jug of Happiness

Sport70m★★Very Good🔩3

Theory Of Negativity Wall

17

Lead Zepplin

Mixed
Trad90m★Good🔩3
22

The Draw Thief

Sport20m★Good🔩11
20

Theory of Negativity

The obvious heavily chalked line through the scoops in the middle of the wall. Fantastic.

Sport22m★★★Classic🔩9
23

The Cramps

Line left of Theory of Negativity in orange wall.

Sport22m★★Very Good🔩10
23

Missing Link

Linkup

Left side of orange wall.

Sport22m★★Very Good
23

On the Wagon

Sport22m★Good
17

Grains of Sand

Traverse wall

Trad
9

Levitation Chimney

Mixed
Trad80m🔩5
8

Kedumba Gambit

Mixed
Trad70m🔩3
12

The Belfry

Mixed
Trad70m★★★Classic🔩7

Illiad Buttress

24

Cynics United

Sport82m★★Very Good🔩5
21

I Don't Climb Wigglies

Bolted pitch left of trad start for Cynics United. Apparently not great.

Sport17m🔩9
21

The Cynical Cypriot

The corner crack and roof system on The Illiad pitch two ledge. Approximate path. Finish up Illiad or rap of Cynics United.

Trad30m★★Very Good
16

The Iliad

Mixed

Excellent trad multipitch up crack and face system. A better quality variant than the marked route path is to do the first pitch of Cynics United and traverse across the ledge to rejoin at pitch 2.

Trad87m★★Very Good🔩4
23

Trojan (The Illiad Pitch 2 Variant)

Trad25m★★Very Good
14

Odyssey Walls

Mixed
Trad100m★Good🔩4
12

Constipation Chimney

Mixed
Trad110m★Good🔩7

Binary Cave Lower

12

Constipation Chimney Variant Start

Trad19m★Good
19

Birthday Bolts

Sport20m★★Very Good🔩9
21

Thirty Three Years

Sport15m★★Very Good🔩7
21

Flash Flood

Sport18m★★Very Good🔩7
22

Stereo

Sport20m★Good
22

Thai Virus

Sport25m★★Very Good🔩10
22

La Niña

Sport25m★★Very Good🔩10
23

A Nice Day for a Disco

Direct start via cave to join other routes.

Sport25m★Good🔩3
20

Torrential

Trad25m★Good
21

Middle Finger

Trad25m★Good
24

Driven

Sport20m★★Very Good
25

Taxi Driver

Sport20m★★Very Good🔩9
25

Swinging In The Rain

Sport20m★★Very Good🔩13
25

Windtalker

Sport20m★Good🔩12
M4

Thumbs Up

Mixed
Trad92m★Good🔩3
25

Digitalicious

Sport20m★Good🔩12
25

Binary Neil

Sport25m★★Very Good🔩10
27

Chalk Chops

Sport25m★★Very Good
24

Survival Day

Sport20m★Good🔩10
M2

Thumbs Down

Mixed
Trad78m★Good🔩4
21

Socially Inept

Right most route on face.

Sport12m★Good🔩4
18

Please Dry

Centre right bolted route.

Sport12m★Good🔩5
21

Whimsical

Centre left bolted route.

Sport12m★Good🔩6
20

Rock Snob

Left bolted route on face.

Sport12m★Good🔩4
25

Thunderstruck

Grade 17 pitch one up to ledge.

Sport45m★Good
16

Hells Bells

Mixed
Trad63m★Good🔩5

Binary Cave Upper

24

Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing

Sport12m★Good🔩7
25

Juice on the Loose

Sport12m★Good🔩9
26

The Kangaroolity of Women

Sport15m★★Very Good🔩11
24

Is it About a Bicycle?

Sport10m★Good🔩9
27

Armistice Direct

Sport15m★★Very Good🔩6
25

Armistice

Sport14m★★★Classic🔩6

Ben Travato

19

The Swiss Route

Mixed
Trad88m★Good🔩4
24

Golden Giles

Sport70m★★Very Good
22

The Sublime and the Beautiful

Sport75m★★Very Good🔩3
24

San Pornando

The aesthetic orange streak.

Sport38m★★Very Good🔩16
19

Colosseum Corner

Mixed
Trad78m★★Very Good🔩4
20

Ben Trovato

Mixed

Girdle traverse of the wall. Pitch one is an excellent, standalone crack climb that is well worth bringing the rack down for.

Trad150m★★Very Good
24

Guillotine

Sport48m★★★Classic
28

Marxism

Sport62m★★★Classic
28

Fashionista

Sport30m★★Very Good🔩18
25

Vespasian's Wall

Multi-pitch straight up the tiger striped head wall. A popular variant is to do pitch one only.

Sport58m★★★Classic
24

The Young Violent Pony

Sport25m★★Very Good🔩10
28

The Old Sleepy Horse

Sport26m★★Very Good
25

Kizashi

Sport20m★★★Classic🔩12
29

Kizashi Extension

Sport27m★★Very Good
24

The Face Race

Sport32m★★Very Good🔩16
26

Sadomastication

Sport67m★★★Classic🔩3
23

Reigning Steel

Sport17m★★Very Good🔩7
25

Reigning Steel Extension

Sport27m★★★Classic🔩13
28

Zoncolan

Sport25m★★★Classic
25

Microdermabrasia

First pitch is 23.

Sport85m★★★Classic🔩3
26

Poggio

Sport25m★Good
25

Gavia

Sport20m★★Very Good
29

Stelvio

Sport25m★★Very Good
23

Exile

Sport85m★Good🔩5
17

Electra

Mixed
Trad130m🔩5
14

Oedipus

Mixed
Trad190m🔩6
23

Milestone Arete

Sport14m★★Very Good🔩7
26

The Road Not Taken

Sport18m★★Very Good🔩8
29

S for Stile

Sport18m★Good
23

Cipressa

Sport18m
22

Cloudheat

Sport12m★Good🔩5
29

Cloudheat Extension

Sport27m★★Very Good
24

Climbalot

Sport27m★★Very Good🔩11
25

Weakend Worrier

Sport30m★★Very Good🔩12

Sweet Dreams Area

24

The Sweetest Dream

Sport20m★★Very Good
22

Saccharine Nightmare

Sport100m★★Very Good🔩4
20

Hyperglycemic Hallucination

Sport60m★Good
17

Narcolepsy

Mixed
Trad100m★Good
14

Sweet Dreams

Mixed

The best introductory multi-pitch climb in the Blue Mountains. Several variations are available however the most common grade 14 version is the one marked in the 3D guide. The original Sweet Dreams

Trad130m★★★Classic
17

Sweet Nightmare

LinkupMixed

First 3 pitches of Sweet Dreams linked into top 2 pitches of Saccharine Nightmare.

Trad130m★★★Classic
17

Sweet Dreams Middle Variant

Mixed

Climbs the bolted face as a variant of pitch 5 of Sweet Dreams.

Trad120m★★★Classic
14

Sweet Dreams Original Finish

ChossyDangerousMixed

The original route, superseeded by the bolted variant and the trad corner. Halfway up pitch 5, traverse rightwards. ⚠️ This terrain has terrible rock, has been the scene of accidents and is hazardous to belayers and other parties. Do not climb.

Trad30m🔩2
20

Dreams Are Free

Sport25m★★Very Good🔩2
20

Jude Food

Sport25m★Good🔩3
18

Rapid Eye Movement

Sport25m🔩1
16

Knight's Mare

Mixed
Trad130m★★Very Good
21

Smack My Pitch Up

Sport120m★★Very Good🔩5
19

Whymper

Bolt Plates

Classic multi-pitch on the gray wall. Path at the top is approximate, follow the bolts!

Sport150m★★★Classic🔩5