East Face

The massive face that dominates the South East col of Mt Barney. Home to The Governor, a 320m, 15 pitch, grade 22 bolted adventure climb.

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Approach

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Distance4.4 km
Elevation Change907 m
-28.28145, 152.70073

Routes

Grade contexts: Roped (Ewbank), Boulder (Heuco)

Route lengths: Lengths range from ~250 m to ~750 m. Most climbs are between ~300 m and ~750 m.

Route styles

4
Total
Sport
Trad

Grade bands

22

The Governor

At 15 pitches and approximately 320 meters, The Governor is Queensland longest sport route. Even though this is a sport route, The Governor is a big, commiting day out. For the best chance of success: ensure you can comfortably climb grade 22 after 250+ meters of grade 20 climbing and thoroughly do your research using the many available online sources. 25 m (19) Steep climbing starts directly off the belay. Follow the bolts through several crux sections to rings on a very small ledge. 25 m (20) Move right around the bulge, or climb straight over it if preferred. Continue up a slab and through broken rock to rings on a small ledge. 20 m (20) Follow the bolts through two overhangs with slab climbing between them. The first overhang can be avoided by climbing right, with a belay on a small ledge. 25 m (16) Climb up the rock cone, then break right toward the main face and into a chimney. Near the top, exit right to a ledge with a small tree. 15 m (18) Traverse delicately up and right across slabby terrain with improving rock quality. Belay on a small stance; this pitch is not recommended to link with the next. 20 m (21) Sustained vertical face climbing with good bolting throughout. Belay at the top of the pitch. 20 m (21) Climb to a roof and clip a hidden bolt just over the lip, avoiding loose blocks below. Move over the roof, then continue left through an overhang to a semi-hanging belay above a shrub. 20 m (18) Difficult moves begin immediately off the belay with limited protection until the first bolt. Continue up vertical terrain with some loose rock. 25 m (14) Easier climbing overall, though some sections have ledge fall potential. Finish on a large vegetated ledge at the top of the central overhangs. 15 m (17) Technical climbing leads up to a solid belay stance. Protection is adequate throughout. 20 m (21) Traverse slightly right into a large corner with technical movement. Continue straight up to belay rings, with the next bolt not immediately visible. 20 m (20) Climb the corner through a small overhang, with options to move right around harder sections. Continue through loose rock and vegetation to a good-sized belay below the summit overhangs. 20 m (22) Climb right through initially poor rock to an overhang, then traverse right as the rock improves. Continue up through a mantle sequence to the belay and consider linking with the next pitch. 20 m (22) Follow the ramp below the final overhang with sections of fall potential. Belay on a small stance above a tree. 30 m (14) Climb slabs to the final belay rings near the summit. The pitch ends approximately two metres below the South East Ridge track.

Sport320m★★Very Good
2

South-East Ridge

The main trail up to the summit on the south eastern side of the mountain. Use this trail to descend from The Governor. Route line in our 3D guide is approximate.

Trad900m★★Very Good
17

East Face Route

The original route up the East Face via a series of chimney features. Line is approximate, refer to other guides for further detail.

Trad280mGood
3

Logan's Ridge

The ridge line on the northen side of the gully. Line is approximate, refer to other guides for further detail.

Trad750m★★★Classic