South Of Entrance Gully

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Aspect West
Rock type Sandstone
Fragile when wet
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Approach

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Distance44 m
Elevation Change12 m
-26.13672, 152.52694
-26.13638, 152.52648

Routes

Grade contexts: Roped (Ewbank), Boulder (Heuco)

Route lengths: Lengths range from ~8 m to ~20 m. Most climbs are between ~12 m and ~15 m.

Route styles

23
Total
Sport
Trad

Grade bands

Entry Wall

After descending the gully, this is the first wall you encounter.

13

Crack Chaser

Trad16m★★Very Good
16

Sun Chaser

Sport15m★★Very Good🔩4
16

Via the Rainbow

Sport12mGood🔩6
14

Good for a Lifetime

Trad11m
20

Foreign Exchange

Sport10mGood🔩6

Spider Fingers Buttress

The protruding buttress feature.

21

Sand in Your Pants

Sport16mGood
21

Spider Fingers

Sport15mGood🔩5
20

Spike

Sport15mGood
19

Beyond the Black Stump

Sport15m★★Very Good
21

Spank the Monkey

Sport15m★★Very Good🔩5

Little Wednesday Cave

This is the obvious cave with the steep bolted routes. Home to the area classic Little Wednesday.

22

Oniondated

Climbs the flake-like system on the left side of the Little Wednesday cave.

Sport10mGood🔩3
25

Little Wednesday

One of the classic of the area and many's first of the grade. Powerful moves up through the steep overhang. Possibly harder is you're short.

Sport8m★★★Classic🔩6
26

Big Friday

Starts slightly right of Little Wednesday. Powerful compression climbing on the steep arete.

Sport12mGood🔩6
23

Savage Sunday

The overhanging fist crack between Big Friday and Passage. Finish as for Passage. Plenty of gear is available in the passage section so resist the urge to clip bolts for maximum Trad Lass/Lad points.

Trad15m

Dream Catcher Face

The face that begins where the Little Wednesday Cave ends. Home to a few great face climbs!

19

Passage

Climbs the lower face through the path of least resistance until joining a crack feature.

Sport15mGood
21

Right of Passage

Variant

A harder variation of Passage that avoids joining the crack and stays on the face to the right.

Sport15mGood
25

The Right To Dream

Linkup

A linkup Right of Passage first two bolts to Shake and Bake, via the crux of Dreamcatcher.

Sport20m★★Very Good🔩6
20

Dreamcatcher

Climbs the flake system in the centre of the wall.

Sport15m★★Very Good
24

Shake and Bake

Thin, technical face climbing that starts on the ramp right of Dreamcatcher.

Sport15m★★Very Good
17

The Enticer

The left leaning crack system just right of Shake and Bake

Sport14m★★Very Good🔩5
5

Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder Cure Corner

The corner crack system.

Trad14m★★Very Good

Far Right Buttress

This is the small buttress right of Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder Cure Corner

16

French Bandit

Sport12mGood🔩4
15

My Brothers Keeper

Sport10mGood🔩5